Notes from the front

Notes Going Overland from Iraq through Iran into Afghanistan

Posted by Stillmind on Jan. 15, 2011 via Daniel Britts
The one and only Sandra Romain (2001 cream-colored MZ 251 Kanuni) as she leaned, gutted by bandits, against the wall of the Afghan National Police compound in Charikar, Afghanistan about 50 Kilometers from her final resting place in Bagram. Photo by author.

Editor’s note: The following three vignettes are taken from Daniel C. Britt’s experience during the U.S. withdrawal from cities in Iraq, up through his overland zig-zag from Baghdad through Iran to Bagram, Afghanistan. He’s been traveling at ground level in the region since 2009, and was joined by videographer Max Hunter in 2010, the two of whom are chronicling the experience with a documentary film scheduled for independent release in 2013.


June 27, 2010, Grass fire on the outskirts of Ainkawa, Iraq

Smoke from the grass fire is in the space where the wall cradles the door.

It’s stinging my eyes. It’s burning a black line down the edge of the dry, craggy lot across from the apartment.

Trucks cross the lot with the long dust tails that belong to comets. The dust falls down and settles in the unfinished Kurdish houses. Most only have windows and a door on one side. They look like giant gray heads. The window side is the face. The taller, wider doorways are the mouths. Each has three or more eyes. Fat Bangladeshi day-workers and delivery men are lollygaggin’ in the eye sockets.

The heads look crazy or dumb, depending on the way the Bangledeshis lean.

+++

I cut through the lot the last time Sandra Romain died on me, on my way back from Ainkawa with whiskey to pay our landlord with.

The bottle’s clanked together as I pushed her up the sides of all the ditches onto the dirt road. Her back tire had been patched on the side but it was alright otherwise. The front was bald and going flat. I hadn’t fixed any of her yet.

It was Grant’s and Teacher’s whiskey, a bottle of each. The Christians at the liquor store sold plastic bottles too but today those were light in color for whiskey, more like Listerine. And today, the kid behind the counter looked especially guilty.

I didn’t want to be too cheap with our landlord this time. Since the videographer and I moved in with our crumby microwaveable chicken steaks, ants have been forming clusters in the kitchen and the front room.

Sandra Romain had a leaky carburetor. I took the scenic route down the street covered in broken green glass. She died because the carburetor let out slowly all over my boots and the road. I didn’t see it coming and drove further than I should have because I liked the wind and the way the light swam on the shards.

+++

Now it was only the sun and the hot rocks.

You heavy bitch.

Two miles to go.

The houses weren’t as freakish up close. Ivory knobs and green swinging gates explained everything.

Up close, most of the Bangladeshis weren’t lollygaggin’ at all. They were stirring tar in the heat and stomach-sick, leaning out of the eye sockets, vomiting down the cheeks. The fumes got them. Without a motorbike, there’s no such thing as wind here.

+++

Smoke is all over the flat and the black line has grown to a hundred meters long.

The more my eyes water the funnier it gets.

Chickens run away from it.

Cinders dance in the window frame.

The smoke dips into my glass of water.

Burn the grass in a country plagued by dust?

Men, douse it in benzene. Light it at noon. Iraq isn’t hot enough at that time of day.

It’s been done like that for years, during shelling from Turkey and two decades of war with Iran and America.

To keep it up takes strength.

We don’t let trouble bother our routines. We don’t fix anything. We go to work and vomit every day.

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Afghanistan…How much longer?

Notes on Temperatures in a Warzone

Curated by Stillmind

-12/23/10- by Jake Reed
The first writer published in response to Matador’s recent call for nonlinear narratives, Jake Reed reflects on his experience in Afghanistan through different temperatures.
Afghanistan. Photo: US Army

125° Fahrenheit

Doha, Qatar, summer 2010. My bottle of frozen water is warm after the 100-yard walk from the chow hall to my tent. My flight to Afghanistan leaves in fifteen minutes. I won’t return for six months. They issue me my weapon and body armor. They give me my final instructions. I walk across the runway and feel the heat resonate up my legs. The C-130 lowers its cargo door and we shuffle inside.

-65.2° to 176° Fahrenheit

The operating temperature of the 5.56mm round that goes into my M4 Carbine. I have ninety of them hanging on my vest. This means that when everything else breaks, I can still shoot something.

I haven’t shot anyone yet. Most of us haven’t. We awkwardly sling our rifles over our backs and slam them into doorways and kneecaps. We attach scopes we hope to never use. I make sure it’s in the background whenever I’m on Skype.

14° Fahrenheit

The temperature at which my iPod officially stops working. I throw it across the room and it bounces off the plywood wall. I’m on a random mountain in Afghanistan. I haven’t slept in 32 hours. I curl into my sleeping bag and try to shiver myself to sleep. My M4 is a foot away. It’s loaded. I stare through the bullet holes in the tin door and see the full moon outside.

Photo: US Army

3.56° Fahrenheit

The amount the temperature drops with every thousand feet of altitude. The loadmaster opens the Blackhawk doors so the gunners can respond to any threat during takeoff. The wind whips through the helicopter and smacks me in the face. My helmet is the only reason is doesn’t rip off my cap. I shove my hands into my pockets and fold my legs into my chest. I left my gloves in the tent.

I look at the soldier across from me. He’s carrying a sniper rifle. He looks up and smiles – he’s just as cold as I am. The higher we fly, the colder it gets. I look out the door and see mountains. They’re covered with trees. In the distance I see taller mountains covered in snow. The sun rises over the range and everything is colored gold. I’ve never seen a more beautiful landscape.

208° Fahrenheit

The steeping point of Rooibos tea from Teavana. Someone must have sent it in a care package. I don’t care about the perfect cup – I just want something warm. I pour boiling water over the tea leaves. I set my stopwatch for 5-6 minutes and look around. I just landed back at the front office and I’m the dirtiest thing in this room. I unsling my M4 and lean it against my desk. I take off the forty pounds of armor and drop it to the floor.

I need a shower. I need sleep. I need to slow down before I burn out.

I log onto my computer and start responding to emails. The phone rings. My colleagues come back from lunch. I don’t get to sleep for another fourteen hours. I forget all about my tea.

98.6° Fahrenheit

The operating temperature of the human body. The temperature of the blood that flows through your veins. The temperature of the blood that pours from shrapnel wounds and seeps along the floor of the Heath Craige Joint Theater Hospital in Bagram. I’m here to get an infection on my foot looked at. Two soldiers are being medevaced to Rammstein after an IED went off during a routine patrol. The ambulance idles outside. The flight crew is fueling a C-17 on the runway. Angry passengers walk out of the air terminal complaining that their flight was being rerouted to Germany. I step over the trail of blood and fill out the sign-up sheet for sick call.

My plane leaves in a month. 

For more wartime writing, please see Daniel Britt’s notes on traveling overland through Iraq and Afghanistan.

    About the Author

Matador ID: jakeallreed

Jake is a workaholic travelphile whose idea of a good time is sleeping on a dirty cot in the middle of nowhere. He’s been shot at, homeless, stranded in a blizzard, and pushed off a cliff.

 

Amazing Black & White Photography

Curated by René Volpi on Dec. 1rst,  2010

Photographs below by Paolo Pellegrini,

 

MAGNUM/Paolo Pellegrin

 

 

 

MAGNUM/Paolo Pellegrin

On the Iranian detention of Sarah

Open Letter from Sarah Shourd

11/29/10  Curated by Stillmind
Photo: schani

Sarah Shourd, one of the three American hikers who was detained and imprisoned by Iranian authorities, was released in mid-September; the other two hikers remain in Evin Prison. This letter was sent by Sarah to supporters of Free the Hikers in late October. She has given Matador permission to reprint the letter in its entirety here.

I came out of prison feeling frozen. I put up walls inside walls because if I stayed tender for 13 months in prison I would have exposed myself to too much pain; because there wasn’t enough beauty in a day to ward off the long, spiritual winter; because I needed them to stay sane.

More than anything I’m grateful to finally be sitting here writing about prison in the past tense.

Yet, for Shane and Josh, prison is still locked in the eternal present.

I am one of the only people in the world that has their voices still fresh in mind. They were truly joyful to see me go free. Tightly grasping my hands in theirs they said, “We believe in you, Sarah, no one is more ready and capable of jumping into the free world and fighting for us than you are.”

“Free-life offers new challenges and very different obstacles than I faced in prison. I have reentered a world of fear and uncertainty…and also of great hope.”

Free-life offers new challenges and very different obstacles than I faced in prison. I have reentered a world of fear and uncertainty…and also of great hope. Now I know first-hand what our families and all of you have been experiencing all along.

I learned patience and perseverance those long months and it’s those lessons more than anything that are serving me now.

The most important thing that I can offer you are the words of Shane and Josh. What they want to say to you, more than anything else, is “Thank you.” Not even a message as basic as that has been able to fly from their lips, suspended by tender air currents and carried into your ears, for all these months.

“Thank you.”

Since the day I stepped off that plane into Muscat, Oman I’ve met with three presidents, numerous foreign ministers and ambassadors. Not one of them means any more or less to me than one of you.

I fervently believe that everyone’s efforts led to my freedom, everyone’s belief that the world contains as much goodness, and as much justice, as we create and put into motion. Not an ounce more or an ounce less.

I want this freedom, this justice for Shane and Josh, with every morsel of my being. Every breath I take, every time I open my eyes in the morning and every time I close them at night, I see them. I know them and I love them.

“Since the day I stepped off that plane into Muscat, Oman I’ve met with three presidents, numerous foreign ministers and ambassadors. Not one of them means any more or less to me than one of you.”

I want to ask you to please, look to the positive, feel the power and the strength of what you’ve done. Help us give one, last, huge push!!!

I’ve asked the world to redouble its efforts. But what does that mean? It means do what you do best, whatever it may be. Do what you do best for Shane and Josh. We need fundraising for legal expenses, translation and travel. We need t-shirts and jewelry sold. We need prayers and we need action. We need more people to visit the website and sign the new petition. Make a “Free All Three” banner and hang it up in the most visible spot you can find. We need you to mobilize and be ready for the next step when it comes.

We have all been changed and continue to be changed by this experience. Thanks to all the love and support I’ve felt in the last month I’m slowing thawing out, but sometimes it feels like a glacier in there, waiting for thousands of years for just enough sun. When Josh and Shane get out they will help me figure it out. No one knows me as well as they do. When the three of us are together and free, I know we will heal.

“Do what you do best, whatever it may be.”

Prison is not heaven or hell. Nothing in life made us ready for this experience, but Shane and Josh are coping. They are as strong as they need to be. They will walk out unbroken.

One of my students once said to me, “A part of me is yours forever” because I was there to help him get through a difficult time in his life. I want to say the same to all of you on behalf of myself, Shane and Josh, “A part of us is yours, forever.”

“Thank you.”

When Josh and Shane are free we will all be able to exhale collectively, pause and then ask, “Who’s next” There are millions more lined up, waiting to get free. “What’s next?” There are countless changes that devoted, committed people like ourselves can band together and fight for. I’m looking forward to the day. I’m hoping that Shane and Josh will soon be standing with us, asking these questions and finding answers.

-Sarah Shourd

 

10 Reasons You Know It’s Time To Go Traveling

10 Reasons You Know It’s Time To Go Traveling

Posted and curated by Stillmind

Written by Turner Wright

Feel like you need escape? Read these 10 reasons and see if it’s time to hit the road.

Photo by Marc Sebastian
So you finally did it. You moved back home. You gave up on your dreams of being a lifetime traveler in exchange for a pension, a steady paycheck, and a stable home environment.
Good for you. The only problem is, we both know it may not stick.
You can feel it already, can’t you? Not exactly a sense of loss, but rather, some part of you is being slowly diluted, your true self fading from a lack of stimulation.
Escape. Get out while you still can. Hit the road, and be grateful you pushed yourself.
How do you know when it’s time to go traveling?

10. Recycled Coffee Starts Tasting Good
You’ve become so complacent with your 9-to-5 cubicle job that that caffeinated mixture of grounds and office sweat is actually making your mouth water. You’re spending too much time staring at an LCD screen. Water cooler talk is fascinating to you.
GET OUT NOW, while you can still remember what sunlight feels like.

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On Facebook and Etiquette

Etiquette values on FB

A post by Stillmind

via the Web

Let’s face it.  Etiquette is a lost art.  Forget “interruption marketing” for a minute and think about how people interact on a regular basis.  New technologies change that behavior as people seek to leverage the convenience they provide.

  • When the phone was invented, an etiquette had to evolve on how to greet a new call, what’s an appropriate time to call, how to converse without interruption.  (Lots of room to improve here still – I can’t understand why politicians don’t have to follow the “do not call” list rules, but that’s another story).
  • Email etiquette arguably doesn’t exist – in a business context, companies have a culture around when people turn to email and when they don’t.  Email between friends and family has a broad range of what’s “socially acceptable,” but over time people at least develop a sense of when people will reply and why.
  • Two years ago, no way I’d tell you that it would be acceptable to converse via text message/SMS with grandparents.  Same with instant messaging.

In each of these small examples, the communication is mostly 1:1.  Email can be broadcast 1:many, but it’s deliberate who the communication goes to – you select email addresses to include.  Enter the world of  Facebook, where the communication paradigm is different.  We have 1:many as the default – post once and share with many, who consume the content (status updates, photos, videos, links) at their leisure.  Forget that most people don’t have a common understanding of  what they see in the News Feed and why.   The barrier to communication is low – it’s easy to share a picture or post given so many ways to share, from mobile to desktop.

Sometimes people forget that the communication medium isn’t important – the content of the message is, along with the dynamic.  Is it something that should be shared 1:1 or OK to share 1:many?   Making that choice with the context to understand the medium is crucial in relationship building – for businesses or individuals.

I recently asked some folks on Twitter and Facebook about etiquette, and heard many bizarre stories.  From the unexpected sonogram photo to first hearing of a family death, people are choosing Facebook for the wrong type of communication at the wrong time.   Have an example to share?  Do you thing Facebook etiquette is a lost art or a lost cause?

Time to find riches & ….

How to Get Started Geocaching

Posted by Rene Volpi & Stillmind via Morgan deBoer

Image by rdmott9

A beginner’s guide to treasure hunting, for grownups.

Geocaching, or treasure-hunting for waterproof boxes with mini prizes inside, has been around since 2000. If you’ve got a GPS, a little time, and want a puzzle to solve somewhere in the great outdoors, geocaching is an easy hobby to get into.

Here’s how a basic geocache breaks down:

Get a GPS (or a smartphone) and choose your Geocache

Sign up on a website likeGeocaching.com or download an app likeGeoBeagle to have access to coordinates of caches all over the world (including in Antarctica).

You’ll want to plug the latitude and longitude of the geocache into your GPS to create a waypoint, and write down and any other information available on where the treasure is hidden. Some apps make this step easy, they provide info on the cache, work as a GPS, and allow you to view and update field notes all in the same program.

This all sounds easy, I know, but it won’t be as simple as just walking to where your waypoint leads you. There’s X painted on the ground, friend.

Find it!

Your GPS will only take you so far: these babies are hidden, and well at that. Sometimes your geocache (this term is used for the physical treasure chest or waterproof container) will be in a hole in a tree, sometimes it will be in a hole under a tree, or hidden under a rock. Be creative, and keep looking.

Image by Samuel Mann

Sign the logbook and make a trade

All geocaches should at least contain a log book and a pen or pencil. Write down your name and how your adventure went, and be sure to date it. Many geocaches will also have small items inside that you can swap out for something of equal value; make a note of the trade inside the log book.

There are lots of very creative people who have createdmulti-step and otherwise very complicated geocache hiding places. For your first time, try to tackle something not marked as “expert,” as some caches can be quite tough to reach. Also keep in mind that some of these will require you to take a long hike, pay a museum entrance fee, or spend some time splashing around in a stream.

Enjoy! …and remember me if you get loaded rich!

History 101: The Neanderthals

All You Need To Know about Neanderthals

Curated by Stillmind

(A nice bedtime story)Neanderthal

Next to our own selves, there is no more interesting hominid than the Neanderthal. Neanderthals are the humans manqué, the evolutionary dead-end; eerily like us, but different in many ways. And they are the subject of one the hottest ongoing debates in anthropology. These big-brained, stocky-bodied people, inhabited Europe and the Middle East about 200,000 years ago. And there is still tons of information to find out about them. However, with the information we have, we can see that Neanderthals are very similar to modern humans. This helps us know everything we need to know about Neanderthals.

About 35,000 years ago, is when Neanderthals died out. The fossils that we find have been dug up in various places, mainly in Europe. This also, tells us that it is likely that Homo Sapiens Neanderthalensis appeared roughly 120,000 years ago. In the past, some have claimed that Neanderthals held ritual burials, which would have implied highly developed social behaviors and possibly even religion. But that belief was largely based on a 60,000-year-old Neanderthal burial at Shanidar cave in Iraq, where pollen grains were taken to imply that the body had been covered with flowers. Many scientists now believe the plant material is anincidental intrusion. In reality the number of claimed Neandertal burials is extremely low and none has yielded convincing evidence for grave goods. Neanderthals lived during the time of the Ice Age.

They became well adapted to cold conditions. They roamed widely and used certain settlement places at particular times of the year. They traveled very slowly to other continents. They did not need a boat, since it was the time of the Ice Age. There were natural bridges of solid, frozen ice and land that allowed them to travel over vast rivers and seas. But, for a very long time, the earth was frozen, creating giant walkways. Some of these walkways were a hundred miles wide. These early people wandered from Africa to Europe and Asia and from Asia to America, probably in search of food. This early man was named after the valley in which the first skeleton remains were found, Neander Tal. This early man’s real name is Homo Neandertalensis. However, In the beginning, scientist believed Neanderthals were dim-witted brutes with clubs and beast-like features, who walked with bent knees and shambling gaits, with heads slung forward on their big squat necks. But scientist had to rethink a bit after all the discoveries they found. Now, today scientist is still finding and learning more about Neanderthals.Neanderthals used their Homes, Food, Clothing, and Tools and Weapons to survive in the wild Environment they lived in. These early men built permanent homes, to shelter from the long, harsh winter of the Ice Age. In the summer, theyfollowed the herds, and lived in tents and caves. Winter homes were Ice Age huts, built teepee style, from branches and mammoth bones, covered with animal skins. These huts were used for many years, so they built them carefully. Holes were dug, deeply into the ground. Poles were inserted into these holes, and then tied tightly together at the point of the teepee, at the top, with string made from animal guts. Warm furs were laid over this structure and sewn tightly in place. Large rocks were piled around the bottom, to help hold the hut together. For Food, these hunt-gatherers are a variety of seeds, berries, roots and nuts, as did their ancestors. They also are fish and seemed to have an ample supply of freshly caught game. There lives were not a constant struggle for survival because they were such good hunters. They learned to organize hunts and to cure and store food for the long winter. Hunting was done individually and in-groups. They used traps, which allowed them to catch food while they were busy doing something else. Fisherman used bows and arrows, nets woven from vines, fish hooks, and even poisons. Some groups built rafts and canoes, to catch bigger fish in deeper waters. Neanderthals also used clothing to survive. In colder climates, early man learned to soften leather to make warm, comfortable clothes, sewn together with string made from animal guts, usingneedles made from bone. In warmer climates, they made cooler clothes from woven grass, and even from bark. They made necklaces and bracelets out of shells, teeth, feathers, flowers, and bone. Some decorated theirbodies with paint and tattoos, made from natural dyes. That’s not the only way they survived. The most important way they survived was from their tools and weapons. Man had learned to be a skilled toolmaker. Weapons included stone axes, knives, spears, harpoons, wooden bows and sharp stone tipped arrows. These tools and weapons were used for finding food and protection and other ways they could use them. It is obvious that Neanderthals used lots of ways to survive their harsh environment.

Neanderthal vs woolly rhino - BBC

Current evidence in today’s society has shown that the Neanderthal’s were not very different from ourselves in many important ways. Certainly, they had a distinctive skeletal structure, but few differences clothes would not hide. On the average, Neanderthals had longer and lower skulls than living humans do, with longer face and teeth, but no chin, and massive brow ridges in front of a brain as large as our own, but differently shaped. Their bodies were stockier and more mascular than ours, which, combined with their facial features, gave them greater resistance to the fierce cold of glacial climate. Neanderthals were capable craftsmen. As compared to the general-use artifacts of earlier humans, their stone tools were made in a variety of well-defined shapes, often for specific purposes.There is also clear evidence that they had control of fire, lived in caves or open-air structures of stone and vegetation, hunted large game from which they made clothing, cared for their sick or weak, and even buried their dead with some”religious” ceremonies. It is a proven fact that fossils found today of Neanderthals are just like those of modern humans. And with that kind of evidence it is hard not to believe that modern humans and Neanderthals were similar.The Neanderthals died out around 30,000 B.C. One theory is that they were killed off by some species of Homo Sapien man, but there is no evidence of this. Another theory is that they married into other groups, and that over time, they ceased to exist as a separate species. But these are just theories. However, it has been suggested that they disappeared because they are our direct ancestors, they evolved into modern humans. Neanderthals, while an African variety may have evolved into the earliest fully modeern people like ourselves. By 90,000 years ago, early Africans were living in the southern part of the continent, and moderns appeared in Eurasia somewhat later, finally replacing the Neanderthals. Asian peoples continued to spread outward as populations increased, reaching both Australia and the Americas. In the geological means to conquer all the climatic regions of the world and begin the exploration of the universe. From all the evidence shared and found by scientist, it is safe to say that Neanderthals and modern humans are very similar. All the way from their physical features, how they lived, and their bone structures compared to ours. There is still more to find out there and information to be explained.  Neanderthals are still to be found.

 

stay tuned…


Prominent thinkers

Socrates – a man for our times

Posted by René Volpi on Oct 22nd, 2010

from an article by Bettany Hughes

He was condemned to death for telling the ancient Greeks things they didn’t want to hear, but his views on consumerism and trial by media are just as relevant today.

The Death of Socrates, 1787, by  Jacques Louis David
The Death of Socrates, 1787, by Jacques Louis David. Photograph: World History Archive / Alamy
Two thousand four hundred years ago, one man tried to discover the meaning of life. His search was so radical, charismatic and counterintuitive that he become famous throughout the Mediterranean. Men – particularly young men – flocked to hear him speak. Some were inspired to imitate his ascetic habits. They wore their hair long, their feet bare, their cloaks torn. He charmed a city; soldiers, prostitutes, merchants, aristocrats – all would come to listen. As Cicero eloquently put it, “He brought philosophy down from the skies.”

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